October 23, 2018 — They are Ocean Wise recommended and a Seafood Watch green light best choice — a conservationist’s dream. The flesh is invitingly red, delicious and rich in omega-3s.
Land-based tanks are dimly lit to simulate winter light levels in order to trick the fish into growing faster, while delaying sexual maturity. It is one of many tricks needed to grow salmon outside the ocean, its natural environment.
Consider the difficulties of raising cattle underwater while keeping their living space and air pristine and you get a sense of the challenges faced by land-based fish farms growing coho, tilapia and especially Atlantic salmon.
Most Atlantic salmon are grown in net pens in the ocean, drawing criticism from First Nations and environmentalists. Washington state’s decision to end net-pen farming gave some hope that a breakthrough in B.C. could be at hand.
But fish farmers say a large-scale move is not commercially feasible.
“It’s a life-support system and it’s really hard to do,” said Don Read, president and owner of Willowfield Enterprises, which markets the Golden Eagle Aquaculture fish as West Creek Coho.
Because biological setbacks come often, you need deep pockets just to try. The Aquilini Investment Group bought the farm in Agassiz about six years ago.
“Last year, we grew out a cohort of fish and they all performed like you’d hope and the fish were a certain size,” said Read. “We did everything the same this year and 30 per cent of them didn’t mature.”