April 6, 2022 โ Walking into Fearless Fish, a small market in Providence specializing in local seafood, is like walking into Tiffanyโs. The showcases dazzle the eye.
Thereโs familiar fare, like Atlantic salmon, haddock, and sea scallops. Thereโs also a riveting range of fish that are relatively mysterious, curios like scup, butterfish, pollack, Acadian redfish, conger eel, and monkfish. While abundant in our waters, these so-called โunderutilizedโ species โ less known to New Englanders, less tasted, less in demand โ are often exported to countries that apparently appreciate them much more than we do.
Most of the regionโs Atlantic dogfish, for instance, goes to England for fish and chips. โItโs crazy,โ said Chris Cronin, the chef at Union Flats Seafood in New Bedford, who prefers โuniqueโ fish to the familiar. โDogfish is pretty mild, slightly sweet with a flakey texture comparable to haddock. It takes on other flavors, and I like to serve it with citrus notes.โ
Since Fearless Fish opened in early 2019, owner Stuart Meltzerโs main aim has been to try and broaden the consumer palate. โWe want to help people become more confident, to try new fish,โ he said one noontime, as mostly younger customers streamed through the door. The pandemic-driven interest in local foods has been good for sales, he noted, inspiring more daring in home kitchens. Skate piccata? Roasted mackerel with chimichurri? The storeโs online recipes and cooking lessons help to demystify lesser-known fish, as does its disclosure of catch site and means. โFluke, Pt. Judith, dragger.โ โMonkfish, Gulf of Maine, dragger.โ
โItโs important to me, and shared by customers, that the product is local,โ said Meltzer.