Saving Seafood

Cooked: What makes seafood sustainable?

September 1, 2022 — Jared Auerbach reached into a pile of long, skinny razor clams, pulled one out and cracked it open.

Uh oh, I thought.

We were only 20 minutes into the interview and I had already eaten two raw scallops. They were delicious, like butter. But I was sure I’d soon be doubled over with food poisoning.

“I didn’t know you could eat razor clams,” I said. “How do you eat them?”

“What do you think my answer is going to be?” said Auerbach, gleefully slicing clam meat with his shucking knife. “Raw!”

He offered the knife, a flap of clam flesh dangling off the blade.

I ate it. It tasted like the ocean. (And no, I didn’t get sick.)

Following Auerbach through the packing floor of his seafood company, Red’s Best, is like chasing a kid through a candy shop — albeit a candy shop with buckets of monkfish livers, trays of squid tentacles and 50-pound bags of scallop meat.

Headquartered on Boston’s Fish Pier, Red’s Best buys more than 10 million pounds of seafood directly from hundreds of local fishermen every year, Auerbach said. The company supplies seafood to Harvard, Brown and UConn, as well as Beth Israel Hospital and Rhode Island public schools.

The morning I visited, I saw locally caught pollock, halibut and tuna. There were soft-shell clams, blood clams, razor clams and surf clams. They had black sea bass, Boston mackerel and other seafood that I had never, ever seen in a local grocery store.

That’s weird, right?

In my neighborhood big-chain grocery stores, I’ve seen fish from New Zealand, Thailand, Indonesia, Norway, Canada, Chile, China, Columbia and even Idaho. Hardly anything comes from local waters except shellfish.

That’s because American grocery stores sell mostly cheap, familiar fish.

“People are buying crappy fish, and they’re trying to force feed it to their kids. Like old, icky fish that doesn’t have any taste,” said Melissa Marshall, who runs Cape Ann Fresh Catch, a community supported fishery in Gloucester.

What does this mean for people in New England who want to eat local, climate-friendly, “not-crappy” fish? Let’s dive in.

The Numbers Tell A Story

  • Americans eat about 19 pounds of seafood per capita each year.
  • The majority of fish we eat is shrimp, salmon and canned tuna.
  • The largest fishery in the U.S., by volume and value, is Alaska (worth $1.7 billion), but Massachusetts ranks second in value ($679 million) and Maine is third ($578 million).
  • New Bedford, Massachusetts, has the highest valued catch of any single port in the country: $451 million. That’s thanks to sea scallops, which account for 84% of the value.
  • Despite this bounty, between 70 to 85% of the seafood eaten in the U.S. is imported. And when it comes to shrimp, more than 90% is imported. (More about imported fish later.)
  • The bright side: More than half of U.S. consumers say they’re willing to pay more for sustainable seafood.

 

Read the full article at wbur

Growing in popularity, local seafood movement picks up US government support

December 22, 2021 — From Alaska to California to New York to Maine, hyper-local seafood purveyors throughout the United States have seen a boom in interest the COVID-19 pandemic – and federal, state, and local governments are taking notice.

As the result COVID’s drastic impact on seafood supply chains and the U.S. consumer market for seafood, the local seafood trend has thrived in the pandemic, from direct-to-consumer seafood subscription services, to community supported fisheries (CSFs), to fishermen banding together to form sales cooperatives such as Real Good Fish and Get Hooked Seafood in California, Local Catch Network in New England, and Louisiana Direct Seafood.

Read the full story at SeafoodSource

North American Local Catch Network Awarded $500,000 USDA Grant to Catalyze “Boat-to-Fork” Seafood Marketing in the United States

December 18, 2020 — The following was released by the North American Local Catch Network:

The Local Catch Network, based in the School of Marine Sciences at the University of Maine, has received a half-million dollar grant from the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Farmers Market Promotion Program (FMPP) to support better integration of seafood into local and regional food systems and fund the creation of ‘Scale Your Local Catch,’ the first nationwide training and technical assistance program to catalyze sustainable direct-to-consumer seafood operations.

The Local Catch Network has raised $624,331 for the project, which included a 25 percent match contribution from the University of Maine System, in addition to a $499,463 grant awarded by the USDA. With funding secured, the Local Catch Network is now in the beginning stages of building out the Scale Your Local Catch program’s infrastructure and expects to start recruiting its first cohort in the summer of 2021. To start, the program will prioritize seafood operations that serve consumers in low income and low food access areas.

Joshua Stoll, Assistant Professor of Marine Policy at the University of Maine and co-founder of the Local Catch Network, explained the significance of the project:

“We are thrilled that the Local Catch Network is receiving this incredibly important and timely grant. As we have seen during the COVID-19 pandemic, and repeatedly in recent history, fishers and seafood harvesters are vulnerable to social, environmental, and economic shocks. Direct and values-based seafood businesses have been a bright spot, stepping up during the pandemic when traditional supply chains have faltered. This grant will help to ensure that these alternative business models remain sustainable long-term and seafood is recognized as an integral part of local and regional food systems.”

A broad range of skills, from marketing and social media management to pricing and permitting, are required to successfully sell seafood directly to consumers. Scale Your Local Catch will reduce the learning curve for fishing communities by leveraging the collective experience of the Local Catch Network and partnering organizations through workshops, networking and mentorship opportunities, and digital tools, such as a next-generation Seafood Finder designed to link consumers with producers in their local area. Scale Your Local Catch is being modeled after ‘Ag of the Middle,’ a well-established training program for small and mid-sized agricultural businesses facilitated by the Oregon-based non-profit, Ecotrust.

“We’ve successfully built a training program for farmers in the Northwest to expand their ability to feed the region. Scale Your Local Catch will expand the model and reach communities across the country, especially low-income communities and areas with low food access,” said Tyson Rasor of Ecotrust, one of the grant program partners.

“As a seafood business owner, I am so pleased with this opportunity to expand the Local Catch Network and support business models like ours across the US,” said Kerry Marhefka of Abundant Seafood and Executive Committee member of the Local Catch Network. “We must work collectively to demystify seafood as a protein source for consumers, remove physical, financial and educational barriers to access, and foster greater understanding of community supported fisheries as a path to creating more resilient and thriving local economies.”

Flounder: Summer landings on track; reductions coming for southern allocations

August 18, 2020 — Summer flounder is a popular commercial fishery in the Mid-Atlantic region, with North Carolina allocated the largest share at 27.44 percent. Despite the widespread disruption in markets from covid-19, the state’s fleet by early summer was on track for landings just slightly lower than 2019.

Preliminary statistics show 69 North Carolina vessels representing 131 trips had landed 744,479 pounds of summer flounder by late June, with a value of $2.67 million distributed to 16 dealers.

“Landings of summer flounder appear to be somewhat down from last year, but the trend seems similar,” said Lee Paramore, biologist supervisor with the North Carolina Division of Marine Fisheries. “Since we can modify trip limits to stay within quota, it may be possible to allow for increased harvest if landings remain down relative to last year.

“There a lot of factors that can impact landings, and we haven’t yet determined if covid will play a part, but currently the fish houses here that typically land summer flounder have been operating at same level.”

The state’s commercial landings for summer flounder have been consistent since 2008 ,with the exception of 2012-13, where excessive shoaling in Oregon Inlet limited the number of trawl boats able to land in North Carolina. Annual commercial landings averaged 2.25 million pounds of summer flounder since 2008.

Read the full story at National Fisherman

MASSACHUSETTS: New Bedford launches seafood branding campaign

July 28, 2017 — NEW BEDFORD, Mass. — For generations New Bedford fishermen withstood the elements to do their jobs. Through rain storms they fished. In choppy waters they fished. Against harsh winds they fished.

So it was fitting that the unveiling of the city’s newly-created seafood brand was delivered in the rain at the Custom House Square in downtown New Bedford Thursday evening.

“We are the biggest, the baddest, the most comprehensive fishing port in America,” Mayor Jon Mitchell said. “We are going to scream from the mountain tops that we are the biggest fishing port in America. We are a real seaport and real fishing port. We want everyone to know that.”

In unabashed self-promotion, the city’s seafood brand initiative aims to make New Bedford synonymous with fresh, sustainable seafood much like Maine is with lobster and Alaska is with salmon. The logo, designed by Moore & Isherwood Communications, features a western rig fishing vessel, a major cog that’s helped make the Port of New Bedford the most lucrative fishing port in the country.

When buyers, whether they’re locally, nationally or internationally-based, purchase seafood from the Port of New Bedford, the products will have the logo on the packaging to serve as a visual reminder of what they are eating.

But more than just self-promotion, the branding will also tell consumers that the product they purchased has also been through rigorous testing in any of the city’s processing centers to ensure quality.

“Outside of our region, not enough people know how important New Bedford and our fishing industry are to providing sustainable, fresh, delicious fish to buyers and consumers everywhere,” Ed Anthes-Washburn, port director, said.

Read the full story at the New Bedford Standard-Times

CHRISTIAN PUTNAM: Local seafood in global competition: Time to fight back

July 28, 2017 — Most of our seafood is imported. “Most” means 92 percent; sometimes a higher number is quoted. That leaves eight percent of the seafood that is consumed in the United States sourced within our boarders. As was discussed last week, a piece of fish that is caught off the coast of Scituate, returned to shore properly handled but not frozen, processed locally and sold within a day or so is far superior to a frozen foreign product. Superior in both health and quality benefits. It would be hard to find someone to argue against this supposition.

Why would a consumer that lives in or near a fishing port every buy the foreign frozen version of something that is much better tasting and for you when caught locally? The answer is two-fold. One issue is that the seafood market is clearly global. Foreign players often have cost leverage over local operations. Second, many consumers do not realize they are buying or ordering a foreign-sourced fish and may not realize it has been frozen. Sometimes products are misrepresented on menus, sometimes the fish case at the grocery store is missing the required sign when a product is foreign and often the consumer just doesn’t think to ask.

While cognitively consumers know local is better, the differentiation between local and product from elsewhere simply enough to change behavior. A piece of fish is a piece of fish to many. Plus, after years of lackluster economic growth, many consumers are still very driven by price.

Read the full column at Wicked Local

CONNECTICUT: Industry expert says consumers have a role in saving local seafood

July 28, 2017 — STONINGTON, Ct. — Finding fresh, locally caught fish isn’t easy, but if educated consumers are persistent, they will not only help local fishermen, they’ll also help rebuild weakened domestic seafood markets that have been deeply gouged by imports and regulations.

Meghan Lapp, fisheries liaison for Seafreeze Ltd., a producer and trader of frozen seafood in North Kingstown, explained these points and more in her presentation, “Sea to Table: Bringing the Bounty of the Sea to You,” before an audience of about 40 people at the La Grua Center Thursday night.

In attendance were state Sen. Heather Somers, R-Groton, First Selectman Rob Simmons and a number of longtime local fishermen. The Stonington Economic Development Commission sponsored Lapp’s presentation.

She was joined by a panel comprised of Tom Williams, a generational fisherman with two sons who are commercial fishermen; Rich Fuka, president of the Rhode Island Fishermen’s Alliance; and Mike Gambardella, owner of Gambardella Wholesale Fish at the Stonington Town Dock.

Lapp said the fishing industry was so over-regulated, “You practically have to be a lawyer to go fishing.”

Read the full story at the Westerly Sun

MASSACHUSETTS: Seafood being added to state Farm to School Project

January 3, 2017 — BOSTON — The state Division of Marine Fisheries’ Massachusetts Seafood Marketing Program has partnered with the nonprofit Massachusetts Farm to School Project to promote the consumption of local seafood in schools.

“The Massachusetts commercial fishing and seafood industries provide delicious food and employment for thousands of people in the Commonwealth,” said Gov. Charlie Baker in a news release. “This is a great connection to make and we look forward to the partnership between Massachusetts fishermen and farm-to-school programs to provide the Commonwealth’s children with fresh, nutritious seafood products that support cognitive development.”

Energy and Environmental Affairs Secretary Matthew Beaton, in the release, said “Increasing sales of local seafood to schools will not only help find new markets for Massachusetts fishermen, but will also address the critical issue of access to healthy food, and introduce future consumers to the benefits of incorporating seafood into their diet.”

During the two-year partnership, the partners will promote seafood as part of Massachusetts Farm to School’s Massachusetts Harvest of the Month campaign, hold a series of local seafood cooking demonstrations for institutional food service providers, and have already offered a seafood focus track at the Massachusetts Farm & Sea to Cafeteria Conference in November 2016.

“This partnership helps DMF better increase awareness and preference of Massachusetts seafood to support the Commonwealth’s seafood industry and communities by reaching schools, universities, and hospital food service staff, educators, and families though Massachusetts Farm to School’s network,” said DMF Director David Pierce.

The Baker-Polito Administration launched the Massachusetts Seafood Marketing Program in August 2016 to increase awareness and demand for local seafood products and support Massachusetts’ fishing and seafood industries.

Read the full story at the New Bedford Standard-Times

Aquarium program offers food for thought on eating sustainably

May 4, 2016 — For decades, the National Aquarium has entertained millions of visitors while also teaching them about the need to conserve aquatic resources. The Baltimore institution has rescued marine animals off the coast of Ocean City, built floating wetlands to help clean the Inner Harbor’s water and featured Chesapeake Bay creatures in its tanks and exhibits.

But the aquarium was nearly silent on the subject of seafood consumption. The dark, serpentine halls told the story of precious resources being overfished. But that story didn’t have an ending — a solution for how to stem the decline. It had no programs to guide visitors on where to buy local fish caught sustainably, or how a customer could even understand what that meant.

That’s starting to change. A year ago, the aquarium hired its first director of sustainable seafood: T. J. Tate, who built a sustainable seafood program in the Gulf of Mexico. Tate is bringing together chefs, watermen and others in the seafood industry to talk about catching, raising, buying and eating locally caught fish, crustaceans and shellfish.

It is increasingly part of the story told by aquariums everywhere, at a time when overfishing is rampant worldwide while customers often overlook local products. Even fish that customers think is sustainable comes from far away — farm-raised salmon from Norway, or wild varieties from Alaska — and those distances have ramifications for air and water quality, too.  Visitors often ask what they should eat, and the aquarium wanted to find an engaging way to guide them.

“Telling the local seafood story in an integrated fashion — I mean the sustainable aquaculture supply and wild supply — is one of the most important things we can do to get people connected to oceans and the Bay,” said Eric Schwaab, who hired Tate when he was chief conservation officer at the aquarium. “There’s no better place to do that than Baltimore.”

Read the full story at the Bay Journal

MASSACHUSETTS: School district signs up for local seafood

July 14, 2015 — CHICOPEE, Mass. (AP) — A Massachusetts public school system is the first school district to sign on to a Maine science institute’s seafood certification system.

A spokesman for Gulf of Maine Research Institute in Portland, Maine, announced the partnership with the Chicopee district on Tuesday. The institute says the agreement means the district’s 7,800 students will be able to eat seafood that is responsibly harvested and traceable to the Gulf of Maine.

Chicopee sustainability coordinator Madison Walker says the move supports the region’s food economy. She says it will also help teach students about the fishing industry and marine ecosystems.

Read the full story from the Associated Press at the Boston Herald