Saving Seafood

New England waters are teeming with fish species. The problem is we eat too few of them.

June 22, 2022 — Jared Auerbach stands with a box of monkfish livers at his feet. They are pale pink and streaked with blood, each one packed in plastic and nestled on ice.

Behind him on the processing floor at the Boston Fish Pier, an ice machine releases an avalanche of cubes at two-minute intervals. Dozens of gloved and aproned workers mill about, offloading, packing, and filleting. They work with the usual suspects: blue mesh bags of oysters, live scallops, and lobsters with banded claws in plastic crates.

But plenty of other local species fill the floor. There’s the monkfish, of course, plus a box of conch. There are halibut bellies and skate wings and whole black sea bass.

“On our busiest day, we unloaded 376 different boats,” says Auerbach, who founded fish distributor Red’s Best in 2008 to connect fishermen with wholesalers and retailers. He deals that catch around the world — to buyers as close as the Boston Public Market and as far as South Korea.

The shellfish stand a good chance of staying within New England, he says, finding a home at a local restaurant or fish market. But the finfish may still have a long journey ahead of them.

Read the full story at The Boston Globe

MASSACHUSETTS: The last of the seafaring life, at the Boston Fish Pier

February 18, 2020 — It’s 5 a.m. and the moon looms high. The cranes flanking the Seaport’s newest high-rise are stilled. At this hour, no buses cruise down the main boulevard, no corporate workers hurry to sleek office buildings, and the flat screens at Tony C’s Sports Bar & Grill are as black as the pre-dawn sky. But outside of Bay 21 on the Boston Fish Pier, the morning catch, jiggling like Jell-O, has already arrived.

Rocky Neck Fish owner Steve Gennodie spots the delivery: four cheesecloth bags full of shelled scallops so fresh they’re still twitching. He bellows “Goodbye, Sunshine!” to the boat captain who hauled them in from Provincetown. Mauricio Jantes, Gennodie’s head fish-cutter, slices open the cloth to reveal a shimmering mountain of fleshy white bivalves and pops one into his mouth.

The workday starts before first light at the Boston Fish Pier, a vestige of a blue-collar Boston now surrounded by acres of gleaming glass towers, hotels, and condo buildings. What once defined the South Boston Waterfront is now an outlier, an oddity in fact. It is fair to ask, why is it still here? But also, would Boston be truly Boston if it were not?

For decades after its 1914 debut, the wharf churned with activity next to an expanse of undeveloped land and railroad tracks. Boats lined up 10 deep to offload their catch and sell it at the auction house, the stately building at the tip of the 1,200-foot pier. But dwindling stocks and heavy regulation buckled the industry in the early 2000s, pushing some occupants out of the pier, threatening those who remained, and ending the auction entirely. Nowadays, the wharf has undergone something of a revival, transformed into a bustling processing hub where trucks deliver more catch than trawlers, and fishmongers rely less on local sales than a global network of imports and exports.

In an effort to preserve the neighborhood’s maritime history, Massport, the agency that has owned the pier since 1972, has thrown a line to the local fishing industry in recent years, keeping rents well below what new development projects in the Seaport typically fetch and funneling money into the maintenance of the 106-year-old wharf. Meanwhile, Rocky Neck and the 18 other seafood tenants that fill the pier’s twin brick row buildings have shifted their business models to meet changing consumer demands.

Read the full story at The Boston Globe

Foes, friends praise retiring NOAA official’s approach

December 26, 2017 — He’s been called a Neanderthal and the most reviled man in the region’s fishing community. At a public meeting broadcast on national TV, a fisherman once accused him to his face of lying for a living.

As the regional fisheries administrator of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, John Bullard has drawn ire from all sides — fishermen, environmentalists, and politicians alike. His decisions have been routinely controversial, and he has rarely minced words in defending them.

Yet he has also earned widespread respect during his tenure as the region’s top fishing regulator, the rare public official willing to say what he thinks, no matter how unpopular. Earlier this year, he even publicly criticized his bosses, an offense that nearly got him fired.

As he prepares to retire from one of New England’s most influential — and thankless — government positions, Bullard, 70, has few regrets.

Read the full story at the Boston Globe

 

MASSACHUSETTS: Boston Fish Pier gets historic place designation

August 21, 2017 — Visitors to the Boston Seafood Festival on Sunday can savor the lobster bake, watch fish-cutting demonstrations, or throw one back at the beer garden. Most will be unaware the place where they’re standing — the Boston Fish Pier — has become a touchstone in the struggle to hold on to the city’s historic character.

The pier just landed on the National Register of Historic Places. The decision was expected: The Massachusetts Historical Commission had voted to endorse the listing, and the National Park Service typically adheres to this kind of recommendation.

Local politicians — such as Nick Collins and Michael Flaherty, both of South Boston — pushed for this, in part as a way to help reassure the pier’s seafood businesses of their future on a rapidly changing waterfront.

Read the full story at the Boston Globe

Annie Tselikis runs the Maine Lobster Dealers’ Association

October 24th, 2016 — Annie Tselikis (it’s pronounced Sill-eek-us) is the executive director of the Maine Lobster Dealers’ Association. That’s her part-time gig; her full-time work is as the marketing director for Maine Coast, a York-based wholesaler of lobster and seafood. We called the Cape Elizabeth native up to talk about Maine’s largest fishery, just as the European Union announced that it would reject Sweden’s request to ban Maine lobster from sale. (Phew.) Our conversation moved swiftly to about a dozen other topics; Tselikis is only 34 but she has packed a great deal into her career already. Starting with her deckhand days.

TALL ORDER: We reached Tselikis by cell phone as she was driving to Boston for a meeting about Tall Ships Boston, scheduled for summer of 2017. What do lobster dealers care about such things? “The tall ships are tying up on the Boston Fish Pier.” That’s where Maine Coast, as well as a lot of other dealers, have offices. “There are trucks on and off that pier from 3 a.m. to 9 p.m. every night.” It’s going to be a shipping nightmare, but obviously, a beautiful spectacle, so Tselikis is plotting a reception for her Maine Coast customers. “This will be the biggest Tall Ships festival ever,” she said. “Then on top of that, I am going to make things worse for our Boston facility. Those guys are going to hate me.”

RESUME: When Tselikis was a student at Connecticut College, she studied photography and documentary and spent the fall of her junior year at Maine’s SALT Institute. Fisheries hadn’t entered her mind. Maine never left it though, and she decided after college to join friends who were working for Casco Bay Lines as deckhands. She ended up staying two years. Her parents might not have been thrilled, but the economy wasn’t great in 2004 and money was steady on the ferry. Also, fun. “There were days in the summer time where it sort of felt like camp for grownups,” she said.

FISH TALK: That’s where she started to get a sense of the complex world of Maine’s fisheries. “I would hear fishermen talking about what was going in the industry,” she said. “Until that point, it just didn’t register with me that natural resource management was a thing.” That’s how most people are, she says. “They just see boats, they go to Harbor Fish and they buy lobster,” without a sense of the many moving parts involved (a partial list: buyers on the wharf, dealers with the trucks, holding tanks, processors, transportation everywhere from Portland to Hong Kong).

Read the full story at the Portland Press Herald 

JOHN SACKTON: If it is Unethical in Thailand, It is Unethical in Hawaii Also

September 8, 2016 — SEAFOOD NEWS — Charlie Nagle said it best:  We “do not and will never knowingly source from vessels that mistreat their crew.” The Nagle family has been in the fish business on the Boston Fish Pier for 130 years.

The AP report on the imprisonment of foreign fishermen on Hawaiian vessels is a wake-up call.  No seafood buyer will tolerate abusive conditions for fishermen, whether the result of a legal loophole or not.

The US has been highly critical of Thailand, where abusive labor practices and human trafficking in the seafood industry earned worldwide condemnation and resulted in changes in laws and in close audits of the supply chain.

In New Zealand, documentation of abusive labor practices on offshore vessels led to changes in the law and requirements that crews on these boats be free from unfair labor contracts, be paid according to New Zealand laws, and through New Zealand bank accounts out of reach of the labor brokers who hired them.

Can we expect anything less in Hawaii?

The fishermen in question are hired overseas, brought to Hawaii by boat never having set foot in the US, and then kept onboard for months without any possibility of coming ashore while their vessels dock in Hawaii and California.  They are paid as little as $0.70 per hour.

The AP report says that “under the law, U.S. citizens must make up 75 percent of the crew on most American commercial fishing boats. But influential lawmakers, including the late Hawaii Sen. Daniel Inouye, pushed for a loophole to support one of the state’s biggest industries. It exempted Hawaiian commercial fishing boat owners from federal rules enforced almost everywhere else.

Thus the workers in Hawaii, who catch $110 million worth of seafood annually, are paid as little as 70 cents an hour. They are detained on boats by captains who are required by law to hold their passports. That potentially goes against federal human trafficking laws saying bosses who hold workers’ identification documents can face up to five years in prison.”

The Hawaiian tuna and mahi fleet has no excuse.  They can either find fishermen and pay them a US wage, or stop selling to most US markets.

It is simply not acceptable for buyers to express huge concern about fishery labor abuses in Thailand, and ignore those that legally take place in Hawaii.

The fact that these workers can’t come ashore due to lack of visas doesn’t excuse the practice of holding these men on vessels who have no opportunity to leave, nor any opportunity to change their work situation or demand higher pay.  All the condemnation of labor agents and traffickers that supply labor to Thai fishing boats applies to these vessels in Hawaii also.

Undoubtedly the AP story will lead to a change in laws.  But the seafood industry, including the Hawaii longline fleet, cannot wait until then.  They must reform this practice immediately, or shut down.  There is no middle ground.

This story originally appeared on Seafoodnews.com, a subscription site. It is reprinted with permission.

Fifth Annual Boston Seafood Festival Draws Thousands, Features New England Fishermen’s Panel

August 9, 2016 — SEAFOOD NEWS — The fifth annual Boston Seafood Festival was held over the weekend at the Boston Fish Pier. The event is hosted by the Boston Fisheries Foundation, whose membership includes major Boston seafood operators Stavis Seafood and John Nagle Co among others.

The festival has grown into a successful annual event since its founding. Thousands of attendees are drawn to the event that features a Blessing of the Fleet, oyster shucking contest, lobster bake, beer garden and seafood cooking demos led by well-known chefs from popular restaurants around Boston.

Unique to the festival this year was a panel discussion with some notable New England fishermen. Stavis Seafoods CEO Richard Stavis moderated the panel that included Gloucester-based fishermen Joe Orlando and Al Cottone along with Rob Martin from Boston’s South Shore.

The panel highlighted the current issues faced by New England’s fishing industry and what steps need to taken to improve the industry.

The festival also inducted Angela Sanfilippo,  the president of the  Gloucester Fishermen’s Wives Association, into the Boston Seafood Hall of Fame.

This story originally appeared on Seafoodnews.com, a subscription site. It is reprinted with permission.

Expanding lobster supplier hires New England seafood veteran

June 14, 2016 — York, Maine-based live lobster wholesaler Maine Coast has hired a general manager for its new Boston Fish Pier facility, which will open later this month.

Peter Kendall, a New England seafood sector veteran who’s previous role was operations manager at Mazzetta’s Gloucester Seafood Processing factory, is joining Maine Coast.

“We are happy to welcome Peter Kendall to our growing team,” said Tom Adams, founder and owner of Maine Coast, in a release. “This is a critical position as we expand our live lobster wholesale business to Boston. I needed someone with a strong understanding of the seafood business and real leadership skills. We found both with Peter.”

Kendall started in the seafood industry when he was 15 working summers as a lumper at the Portsmouth fisheries co-op. He studied resource economics at the University of New Hampshire and continued working seasonally at the co-op.

Read the full story at Undercurrent News

Gloucester photojournalist launches coffee-table book about the life of a fisherman, the families, the community and much more

April 14, 2016 — GLOUCESTER, Mass. — When young photographer Nubar Alexanian first came to Gloucester, he witnessed a thriving fishing community, rooted deep in the city’s culture. Families worked together in the fishing business, with the next generation often groomed to take over the fishing vessel. Linked by their strong connections to fishing, the families toiled together, celebrated together and, at times, mourned together when fishermen were lost at sea.

All of this caught Alexanian’s attention nearly 40 years ago, and with a cloth-covered view camera, he began shooting the scenes that touched him profoundly. The more he learned, the more he wanted to delve deeper.

“I wanted to get to know the place so I picked up 35 mm cameras, he recalled. “I wanted to find one of the most successful fishing families and follow them. So from 1979 to 1981, I followed the Brancaleone family. I literally became part of the family.”

Alexanian braved 10-day trips at sea, with much sea sickness, and he still wanted to immerse himself more in their world on the frigid northern Atlantic.

See the full story at the Gloucester Times

MASSACHUSETTS: Politicians seek historic recognition for Boston Fish Pier

March 11, 2016 — A group of South Boston politicians is pushing state officials for new measures to protect the Boston Fish Pier, including putting the 102-year-old wharf on the National Register of Historic Places.

The effort comes as the Seaport area undergoes massive changes, with high-end offices, restaurants, apartments, and condos opening near the pier. Meanwhile, the pier continues to operate as the city’s primary fishing port: More than 20 commercial fishing boats have berths there, and 15 seafood businesses, primarily processors and distributors, occupy two of the pier’s three buildings. It’s also home to the No Name Restaurant, a popular seafood eatery.

Last month, five politicians wrote to Secretary of State William Galvin, asking for his direct involvement in preserving the Fish Pier. Galvin chairs the Massachusetts Historical Commission, which administers the National Register program in this state on behalf of the National Park Service.

A National Register listing brings recognition for a property, the potential for tax incentives, and some limited protections from federally funded projects. The listing also automatically puts a property on a similar state register, which then offers eligibility for state-funded grants for restoration projects.

Read the full story at the Boston Globe