August 16, 2013 — As September fast approaches, chefs are leaving behind summer’s lighter fare and returning to braising, roasting and crusting of in-season seafood paired with hearty side dishes featuring fall produce.
It’s still nice for chefs and diners to see the food seasons,” said chef Sven Mede. “I think people are ready for their taste buds to change.”
At Catch American Seafood, one of the five eateries Mede oversees as managing chef for By the Blue Sea Restaurants in Santa Monica, Calif., about 50 percent of the menu will change each season. Among the main dishes on deck for autumn are prawns that get a winter campfire-like smokiness from being cooked on cedar paper; local shellfish with miso broth; and cornmeal-crusted Rainbow Trout.
“From a technique point of view, it’s about moving away from grilling and searing,” said Mede. “It’s more about [preparations like] crusting.”
Mede plans to pair the autumn dishes with all types of squash and pumpkins, and whatever else he finds at the local farmer’s market.
At Liberty Kitchen Oyster Bar in Houston, chef Lance Fegen celebrates the cooler weather by pairing simply prepared seafood with indulgent, seasonal sides. “With all of the fish we do, we just simply grill it,” he said. “So the fish is by itself and it has something nice and comfortable next to it.”