May 31, 2017 — It’s high squid fishing season. Recreational anglers crowd the Calamari (Goat Island) Causeway at night, carrying floating water lights and special jigs to scoop them up in buckets. The commercial fleet is pumping squid into the Port of Galilee by the boatload. From the seabed to the boat to a saltwater flume that shoots them into the maw of a dockside processing facility, they are sorted, graded and flash frozen at minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
In late March, Ryan Clark, president and CEO of the Town Dock, took advantage of a quiet pre-season moment to demonstrate how the Loligo pealei, or longfin squid, is hand-gutted and cleaned. He deftly slices the tentacles from the body just above the eye and pulls out the beak. The guts and the backbone — called the quill for its resemblance to a molted flight feather — are extracted from the long tube of its body. Clark works his thumb between the skin and flesh to peel off the skin, then strips off the back fins to produce a white tube.
A squid’s body is soft and offers little resistance to disassembly. At full throttle, workers at the Town Dock’s Johnston facility hand-process 500 squid an hour to send on their way to Spain, China or your favorite local seafood joint.
“It’s not typical manufacturing,” says Clark. “The seafood world is very challenging with the unpredictable nature of fisheries. There are so many dynamics going on in the ocean. The science tries to keep up, but no one knows what’s underneath the waves. My team has to gear up. When squid season is upon us, it’s all hands on deck to keep the boats going to maximize the catch.”
The Rhode Island fleet has been so adept at maximizing this particular catch that Galilee is now the number one port for longfin squid landings on the East Coast. In 2015, for example, Rhode Island landed sixteen million pounds. New York, its nearest competitor, landed about 4.3 million pounds.
Last year was Rhode Island’s best yet, with 119 vessels landing 22.6 million pounds of squid, valued at $28.6 million. Once an underutilized species, squid is the linchpin of the port. With three processors — the others are Sea Fresh USA and Seafreeze — Galilee also attracts out-of-state vessels, magnifying the economic impact, says Department of Environmental Management (DEM) port manager Daniel Costa.
“Squid is not a state-restricted fin fish. Other vessels come here because of our processing and they are the ones buying the fuel, the ice, the groceries,” he says. “They are getting their vessels repaired here and mending their nets. They are spending a lot of money and that is where we get the boost.”
Rodman Sykes, a commercial fisherman for forty-seven years, recalls the days when Rhode Island-caught squid never hit the shore.