If you've eaten a fish caught off the northeastern coast of the United States in the past few years, chances are good that it passed through the giant refrigerated warehouse of the Gloucester Seafood Display Auction in Gloucester, Massachusetts.
That's where I met Steve Dunn, a fish grader, one morning last April. At 4:00 a.m., the building, big enough to hold three basketball courts, was filled with row after row of black plastic bins called totes, each tagged with a lot number and filled with ice and about 100 pounds' worth of whole fish—cod, haddock, monkfish, skate, pollack, flounder, hake, and sole—that had been unloaded from three boats a few hours earlier.
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