The Better Seafood Board's review of the invoices and accusations in the Globe story reveals North Coast delivered correctly labeled fish to all of its customers. There is nothing “technical” about this important fact.
December 10, 2012 — When the Boston Globe began its efforts to help root out fish fraud by investigating and reporting on economic integrity in the seafood industry more than a year ago it was at the forefront of shining a light on an issue many consumers knew little about. The series was initially a good example of how investigative journalism can help drive regulators while policing producers, processors, restaurants and retailers alike. Unfortunately, with its latest installment on this subject the Globe missed the mark.
While fish fraud concerns often revolve around ambiguity and misunderstanding, the facts of the case-study presented in the latest report are neither ambiguous nor misunderstood. The article began by noting that North Coast, both a seafood processor and distributor at the center of the Globe’s investigation, “technically did supply the fish indicated on most invoices.” Our review of the invoices and accusations reveals North Coast delivered correctly labeled fish to all of its customers. There is nothing “technical” about this important fact. Likewise, all of the fish names on those invoices were accurate and labeled exactly as the U.S. Food and Drug Administration requires.
When the Globe’s DNA testing revealed mislabeled menus at four New England restaurants the traditional finger pointing began. But in this case the establishments and the Globe pointed at the wrong company. North Coast is not involved in fraud. The narrative described in the Globe’s report is fundamentally flawed and suggests distributors like North Coast who provide correctly labeled seafood should be responsible for policing the menus of its customers. With 1,000 customers and with 10 items or more on each customer menu, North Coast would be tasked with reviewing 10,000 menu lines to ensure its customers were not involved in defrauding their customers.
The Massachusetts Food Code is clear that restaurants and regulators – not distributors — are responsible for accurate menu labels. It is illegal for establishments to “mislead or misinform the consumer” (105 CMR 590 §590.001.) As we know from Gisele Bundchen, Tom Brady is only responsible for throwing the ball; Wes Welker and company are responsible for catching it. The regulations and the division of responsibilities are clear and demonstrable, pointing fingers and shifting blame does not get at the heart of the issue. In fact it obscures the real challenge.
Just as obtuse reporting ignores realities in the market, it obscures solutions. Pointing out that rose snapper was invoiced by North Coast as snapper suggests a violation of some sort. The fact is the FDA says labeling rose snapper as snapper is accurate and the more acceptable name. Likewise while the Union Oyster House lists fresh Boston Scrod on the menu, the FDA does not consider “scrod” as an acceptable name for labeling either haddock or cod.
In October of 2011 the CEO of the Massachusetts Restaurant Association, Peter Christie, told the Globe, “some [restaurant] operators were knowingly, for whatever reason, substituting one species with another. This is unacceptable.’’ It is unacceptable but pointing fingers at distributors, hand wringing and musing about creating redundant regulations will not successfully address the issue. The Better Seafood Board, as the leading organization driving to rid the full seafood supply chain from cheats, welcomes the opportunity to work with the Massachusetts Restaurant Association and Massachusetts regulators on an integrated program to effectively use resources and accurately target bad actors.
Pointing the innuendo-filled finger of blame at a distributor who didn’t do anything wrong and is committed to providing restaurants and retailers with the right fish at the right price is “technically” fit to print but we feel is a fraud upon Globe readers.
Lisa Weddig is the secretary of the Better Seafood Board (BSB.) Begun in 2007 the BSB is an industry-led group devoted to fighting fraud in the seafood community. Members of the National Fisheries Institute, the country’s largest seafood trade association, are required to be members of the BSB.