At Serpas True Food in the Old Fourth Ward, oysters are a big part of chef-owner Scott Serpas’ Southern-inspired menu. The New Orleans-born chef flash-fries Apalachicola oysters from the Gulf until ethereally crisp and light, then serves them with pickled chiles and a slaw of merliton, Louisiana speak for chayote squash.
Serpas is wondering what he’ll be serving instead come summer. The massive BP oil spill has caused federal officials to shut down fishing in the Gulf of Mexico largely between Louisiana state waters at the mouth of the Mississippi River to the waters off Florida’s Pensacola Bay. But everything east of the mouth of the Mississippi could eventually be affected and that includes Apalachicola Bay and its famed 30 miles of oyster beds.
“I’m more worried about the fishing families I know,” Serpas said. “It doesn’t look good.”
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